Rural Vietnam: Nimh Binh

I made the decision to stop in Nimh Binh, because it's a bit off the beaten tourist path and supposed to be a good place to witness rural Vietnam. It lived up to all my expectaions and we are so happy to have seen this quaint, slow paced city.

We woke early, having previously hired 2 motorbikes with drivers to take us around Nimh Binh to see whatever we wanted. The motorbike ride was incredible... we passed rice paddie after rice paddie, all being tended by the hard working farmers of Vietnam. Armed with nothing more than a pair of mud boots and a wide cone shaped hat to shield them from the sun, these men and women cultivate for long hours each day. It is beautiful to witness from a short distance, especially from the back of a motorbike.

Our first stop was the river of Tam Coc, where we hopped into a small boat. A mother daughter duo paddled us down a 2 hour tour of the river. Rice paddies lined the river to our right and jutting land formations filled the landscape to our left. The river was hopping. Their were many more boats then I had anticipated considering it is the off season. The daughter was 25 and she did most of the paddling, alternating between rowing with her hands and feet. About half way through the journey we approached the caves. This is why I wanted to make this trip. Before we knew it, the sun disappeared and we were paddling along beneath the caves of Tam Coc. It was a breathtaking experience, one I hope our video camera captures accurately.

Our driver on the Tam Coc (Three Caves) River

Heading into one of the caves
Inside!

Waiting patiently for us upon our return, we jumped behind our 2 drivers and headed to a near by pagoda named Bich Dong. The aging construction conveyed a sense deep religious belief. We passed burning incense and devout monks and we descended from the tall incline of the pagoda.

Entering Bich Dong Pagoda

Thirdly we visited the caves of Mue. Judging from the title 'caves' Miguel and I both expected to be descending into the ground. As we approached the area we saw nothing but stairs going up. Why this is called the 'caves of Mue' I do not know, as it is entirely deceiving. So we began to climb. And climb. And climb. And climb. The stairs were built into the rock, making them bumpy and uneven. We made our way up and up and up. Some of these stairs were nearly as tall as my knee, making the journey a steep and complicated one. I don't know that I've ever climbed so many stairs in all my life. Roughly thirty minutes later the end was in sight! We still had not passed another soul. Sweat soaked and exhausted, we reached the peak. The view was incredible and actually worth the painful journey. The peak contained a small stone sculpture, a set of tea cups, a lovely breeze and the view of a lifetime. We experienced a bird's eye view of endless rice paddies, tiny hard working Vietnamese, and the winding Tam Coc river.

So many steps!High above the Tam Coc River

From such great heights...

All and all I must say Nimh Binh has been the most rewarding city I have experienced in this country. For me, it represents quinessential Vietnam. Everywhere you look is a national geographic photo of an aged face framed by a wide, straw, cone shaped hat. The tired eyes of the individuals relay a life of hardship, and yet happiness. It is beautiful here, and the people are primarily the reason it is so.